Littleton Clarke, a prosperous nineteenth-century merchant, and his wife spared no expense when they built their three-story Victorian dream house at the corner of Second and Walnut streets in the charming Eastern Shore town of Pocomoke City. But the circa-1860 showplace was in a sorry state when Pam and Walter Eskiewicz found it in a classified ad back in 1988.

Luckily, the hard work of this fifty-something couple, who have transformed it into Littleton's Bed & Breakfast, is in evidence when we arrived on a quiet Saturday night. After struggling to find the doorbell, lost among the ornate detail of the antique door, we gave it a ring (it sounds just like a bicycle bell) to announce our arrival. "You can hear it anywhere in the house," Walter says, as he ushered us into the splendid foyer of Littleton's.

The first thing we noted was the bold floral pattern of the carpet that extends from the foyer up the sweeping front staircase. A glowing fire in the parlor beckoned, but we were too weary to linger. Walter led us up to our room, the "Hazel Dorothea," spacious, fresh, and welcoming. Homey touches—a comfortable cotton throw on the ottoman, a selection of soft drinks on the dresser—helped us settle in. Above the antique bed, a stained glass window added a touch of color. We like a simple room—not overly ornate—and the Hazel Dorothea suited us perfectly—down to the gently sloping hardwood floors.

The story behind the Littleton T. Clarke House reflects the wealth of its original owners. The Clarkes created one of the grander homes in town, one that survived the three fires that ravaged the town over the years. A succession of owners changed and updated the antebellum building, which was converted into a two-family house at one point.

The old-fashioned feel of the inn's four bedrooms is reflected in their names, borrowed from Pam's mother and her three aunts: The Edith Marion, one of the largest rooms, has a queen bed and a private bath; the smaller Hilda Margaret has a double bed and shares a bathroom—complete with clawfoot tub—with the Alma Victoria. "All the aunts and uncles visited us prior to the remodeling and renovation work," Walter says. "Since it's such a large house, they got confused about where to go. So we tacked up the names of the women so each party could find their respective room."

When we awoke the next morning, we took in the grandeur of our surroundings. Ten-foot ceilings and tall windows added to the feeling of luxury. The Victorian-style colors and elaborate wall coverings in a variety of striking patterns perfectly suit the antique furniture, much of which belonged to Pam's grandmother.

Downstairs, the parlor invites lingering, with a plush couch set in the sunny bay window covered with lace curtains and a fireplace decorated with white ceramic tile. We were tempted to take a seat and start in on the Sunday paper, but breakfast called.

We started with Aunt Carrie's Hungarian coffee cake, served with a cup of fresh fruit. My husband had the Italian omelet—so big it barely fit on the plate. I had the lemon pancakes topped with Pam's homemade organic raspberry syrup. Pam says that her garden supplies the raspberries for her homemade jams and the veggies that go into the omelet, as well as fresh flowers.

The fast pace of life outside the town is one reason Walter and Pam love getting their often-harried city guests to sit down in the dining room and have a leisurely breakfast. "If you're coming to Littleton's, you're going to have breakfast," says Pam. "You've just got to sit for a while and talk."

After our feast, we set off to poke around Pocomoke and ventured down to the Chincoteague Wildlife Refuge for a long walk, where we caught a glimpse of a few wild ponies. Outdoor- lovers can also take advantage of the ViewTrail 100, a hundred-mile bike trail that winds through lower Worcester County, or paddle the waterways of Janes Island State Park. One downside to Pocomoke is its shortage of good restaurants. The night before, we found an inexpensive, if unremarkable, meal of crab cakes and fried chicken at Don's Seafood, where the service can best be described as friendly but leisurely. The good news is that nearby Crisfield, Md., serves up some of the Shore's best seafood.

What drew Pam and Walter to this town is still very much alive in Pocomoke. "We find that people are so down-to-earth here," says Pam.

And for a welcome taste of the simple life, her B&B offers guests that same feel. "We try to go the extra mile for people," says Pam. "We have some guests that have become friends. We greet them with a hug and a kiss." nCL

Littleton's Bed & Breakfast
407 Second St., Pocomoke City, Md. V 410-957-1645 V Rates from $85 to $125.

Rosemary Harty is a frequent contributor to CL.